Garment-drafting chart.



No. 739,178. PATENTBD SEPT.' 15, 149os.

o. HILLMANN.

GARMENT DRAWING.A CHART. APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 2; 1902.

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4PATENTE) SEPT. 15,1903..

0. HILLMANN.

GARMENT DRAPTING CHART.

APPLICATION IILEDvSI-IPT. 2, 1.902.

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No. 739,178. v PATBNTED sEPT.15, 1903. o. HILLMANN.

GARMBNT DRAFTING CHART.

APPLIOATION 211.111) SEPT. 2, 1902. No MODEL. a SHEETS-81111111 a.

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Patented September 15, 1902.5.

PATENTA OEEICE.

A OTTO HILLMANN, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI.

GARMF..Nr-DRAFTINGV CHART.

sPEcIFicArroNrotming part of Letters Patent No. 73ans, dated september 15, 1903.

- Application filed September 2, 1902. Serial No. 121.759. (No model.)

Louis and State of Missouri, have invented al certain new and useful Improvement in Garment-Drafting Charts, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification. n

The object of my invention is to provide a simple compact chart so constructed, spaced, and numbered as that by its use garments or the patterns therefor may be quickly and accurately drafted without any mathematical calculation. Y

A further object of my invention is to provide a garment-drafting chart with slides by the operation of which the size and position of the arm-opening of agarment is regulated relative to the bust-measure.

To the above purposes my invention consists in certain new and novel features of construction, that will be more fully hereinafter set forth, pointed out in the claims, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which-*- Figure I is a plan of the chart, showing the slides in position, the lines, letters, and figures not being shown in this view. Fig. II is a plan of the larger slide, Fig. III being a plan of the smaller slide. Fig. IV is aA plan of the left-hand half of the chart, all the lines, letters, and igures being shown thereon. Fig. V is a plan of the righthand half of the chart and corresponds with Fig. IV.

The body of the chart lisa rectangular section of flexible material, such as cardboard or, preferably, muslim-backed paper, the latter being preferable, inasmuch as it will not readily tear and is of lasting qualities. The greater portion of the face of the chart is divided into small rectangular spaces by the heavyvertical lines 2 and the heavy horizontal lines 3. These spaces are subdivided by the intermediate lightvertical and horizontal lines 4. and 5.

From a point near the center and top of the chart a series of grad ually-curved lines 7 extend at an angle upwardly toward the lefthand corner of the chart, which lines are intersected by the short vertical lines 6, the latter being numbered from the outer one in- Y sive.

wardly 7 to 16, inclusive. The curved lines represent the slope of the shoulder from the neck outwardly for the front of the waist, and the numbers indicate the distance from the neck to the arm-opening at the top of the shoulder.

`From a series of points just below the inner end of the lines 6 a series of gradually-curved lines 8 extend upwardly toward the righthand corner of the chart, these lines being intersected by the short vertical lines 9, the latter being ynumbered from the outer one inwardly 7 to 16, inclusive, to correspond with the numbers on the lines 7, pre viously described. These curved lines represent the slope of the shoulder from the neck outwardly for the back of the waist, and the numbers indicate the distance from the neck to the arm-opening at the top of the shoulder. Extending parallel with the left-hand edge of the chart adjacent the top thereof is a series of apertures 10, indicated from the upper one downwardly by the numbers 7 to 20, inclusive. Extending diagonally toward the center of the chart from a point near the upper left hand corner thereof is a series of apertures 11, the same being numbered from the upper one inwardly 77 to 21, inclu- Extending parallel with the top edge of the chart adjacent the left-hand corner is a series of apertures 12, numbered from the Aouter one inwardly 7 to 21, inclusive.

Extending parallel with the top edge of the chart adjacent the righthand corner is a series of apertures 13, numbered from the outer one inwardly 7 to 20, inclusive. The heavy horizontal line 3a immediately below the lowerone of the curved lines 8 has its intersecting vertical lines 4. numbered from the center of the chart outwardly each way 17 to 7, inclusive. These numbers indicate the chest-measurements and represent the distances from'the centers of the front and back of the waist to the arm-opening infront and back of the arm. y

Along the top edge of the chart between the apertures 12 and 13 is a series of short vertical lines indicated by even numbers from 20 to 50, inclusive. Immediately below this series of numbers is a second series, being the even numbers from 20 to 56, inclusive. The upper row of figures IOO of even numbers from 20 to 58, which,

indicate the hip-measure for pants, and immediately above this row of numbers is a row of even numbers from 20 to 60, inclusive, which indicate the hip measure for skirts.

14 indicates a slide in the form of a strip of the same material of which the chart is constructed, which slide is provided on its face with horizontal and vertical lines to correspond with the lines 3 and 4. The vertical lines along the top edge of the slide at the left hand are numbered G to 17, inclusive. The vertical lines on the lower lefthand portion of the slide are numbered l to 5, inclusive. The slide 14 passes beneath straps 15, formed by making parallel vertical slits in the body of the chart 1 at suitable points a short distance below the horizontal line 3a. The ends of the slide 16 and 17, by means of which it is pulled to the right or to the left, lie on the face of the chart at the sides thereof. Immediately below the lower edge of the slide 14 on the face of the chart the vertical lines 4 are indicated from the left toward the right with the numbers from 20 to 52, inclusive, these numbers indicating the size of the bust. A smaller slide 18 is arranged to move through pairs of vertical slits 19, formed in the body of the charta shortdistance below the left-hand end of the slide 14, the face of which slide 18 is provided with the vertical and horizontal lines to correspond with the lines 3 and 4. The vertical lines at the left-hand end of this slide 18 are numbered from 1 to 4, inclusive. The horizontal lines 3 at the lefthand edge of the chart are alternately indicated from the top downwardly by the numbers 6 to 19, inclusive, and in a like manner these lines are indicated at the righthand edge of the chart by similar numbers. These numbers are the waist-line-indicating numbers-that is, they indicate the distance from the neck to the waist-line. A heavy black line 20 is printed on the face of the chart, this line being termed a guide-line, for the reason that it indicates the general direction in which the line on the pattern is to be formed when the chart is being used. This line is indicated on the chart by the reference-letters A, B, C, D, E, F, H, I, J, K, L, M, and N.

The use of my improved chart is as follows: Assuming that the pattern for a waist is to be made, the proper measurements are made on the body of the person for Whom the waist is being made, after which the chart is laid directly upon a sheet of paper or the lining of the waist, and with a pencil or sharppointed instrument the operator, following the measurements taken from the body, punches through the various lines and apertures corresponding to the measurements,

thus forming' an accurate guide for cutting the pattern from the paper or lining.

Assuming that the neck or collar measurement is twe1ve,the chest-measurement eleven, the bust-measurement thirty, and the distance from the neck to the waist-line sixteen and onehalf, the operator punches through the aperture of the series 10 that is numbered 12, through the aperture of the series 11 numbered 12, and through the aperture of the series 12 numbered 12, and when a curved line is drawn from each punchmark to the other the line for the front of the neck is obtained, as indicated by the guide-line B C. A punch-mark is made at 11, which is at the intersection of one of the vertical lines 6 and one of the curved lines 7, whizh number corresponds to the chestmeasure, and a punch-mark is also made at the corresponding number 11 on the line of chest-measurement numbers below the line 3u. The bust-measure being thirty, the slide 14 is moved to the left until the number 11 on the lower edge of said slide coincides with the number 30 of the bust-measurement numbers that are printed on the chart immediately below the slide 14.

A punch-mark is now made at the point between the 11 and the 30 just mentioned and subsequent punch-marks at l1 on the right-hand series of chest-measurement figures below the line 3 and also at the point where the vertical line 11 intersects the curved line 9, and another punch mark is made through the aperture numbered 12 of the series 13. After the chart is removed from the paper or lining and a curved line is drawn through all of the punch-marks in the order as described the arm-opening is formed, which arm-opening is indicated on the chart bythe guide-line D, E, F, and D. The guide-lines from D to C will be at the point where the top shoulderseam is formed. The movement of the slide 14 to the left to bring the number 1l to the bust-measurement 30 causes the left-hand end of said slide to project a slight distance beyond the left-hand edge of the chart, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. IV. The slide 18 is now moved a corresponding distance to the left, which causes its left-hand end to extend beyond the left-hand edge of the chart. A line is now drawn from the aperture 12 of the series 10 to the horizontal line 3 between 16 and 17, which is the length of the waist, sixteen and one-half, this line curving outwardly from the edge of the chart to the ends of the slides 14 and 18 and being shown by the dotted line A, Fig. IV. Thus it will be seen that when the pattern is cut a greater amount of goods is allowed in the front of the waist to correspond with the bust-measurement, and at the same time the arm-opening is formed more toward the front and is kept in the proper size and in proportion with the bust-measurement. From the point 16%, the length of the waist, a number of punch-marks are made along the line IOO rcs

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i the back-line, which is indicated by the guide-V line H, is punched from the point A on the waist-line 16719 to the point B at the upper right-hand corner of the chart, which latter point i-ndicates the middle of the back of the neck. It will be understood that all of the lines are punched before the chart is-removed from the paper or lining., and after said chart is removed the lines are drawn through the punch-marks in the paper or lining, as hereinbefore described, and the pattern is ready to be cut. It will also be understood that the paper for the pattern or liningis doubled before the chart is placed thereupon in order that the pattern show both the right and/left hand sides of the front and back.

No calculating or figuring is necessary in the use of a chart of my improved construction, it being only necessary to take a certain number of measurements direct from the body and then punch through the various lines on the chart numbered to correspond with the measurements taken.

It is very essential in correctly cutting a Waist to getthe arm-opening the proper size and in proper position relative the bust-measurement, and by the use of the slides herein described this result is quickly and accurately obtained.

I claim as my invention' 1.*In a device of the class described, the combination with a rectangular chart having its face spaced by intersecting lines and provided With certain rows of apertures, which lines and apertures are numbered .to correspond with measurements taken from the body when a garment is to be drafted, of a pair of slides arranged to move horizontally in parallel lines across the face of the chart, the faces of which slides are provided with intersecting lines and also with certain numbers to correspond with certain numbers on the face of the chart, and there being a heavy guide-line printed on the face of the chart and on one of the slides for 'indicating the general direction in which the pattern of the garment is to be marked or cut, substantially as specied.

2. A garment-drafting chart, comprising a rectangular member having its face provided with certain numbered intersecting lines and also provided with certain numbered rows of perforations, and the slide 14 adapted to move in a fixed path horizontally across the face of the chart, the tongues 16 and 17 integral with the ends of said slide for moving same, and said slide being provided with an extension of its left-hand end which projects beyond the edge of the chart when said slide is moved toward the left, substantially as specified.

3. A garment-drafting chart, comprising a rectangular member having its face provided with certain intersecting numbered lines and provided with certain numbered rows of per-v forations, the slides 14 and 18 arranged to move in fixed paths horizontally across the face of thechart and to be extended beyond the left-hand edge thereof, the face of the chart and the upper slide being provided with a heavy guide-line indicating the general direction in which the pattern for the garment is to be marked or cut, substantially as specified.

4. In a garment-draf ting chart, a rectangular member having on its face a series of numbered lines, and a heavy guide-line for indicating the arm-eye of the garment to be drafted, and a slide arranged to move across the face of the chart and to intersect the guide-line for the arm-eye, which slide is provided with a series of intersecting numbered lines to correspond with the lines of the face of the chart, substantially as specified.

OTTO HILL'MANN.

In presence of Y E. S. KNIGHT, N. V.ALnxANDnR. 

